1760s Yellow Silk Damask Gown

 I've been sitting on this yellow silk damask that my dear friend Ruth gave me for my birthday a couple of years ago.  I've had this gown in mind all along--mid century in the Met.  I'd love to have enough fabric for a matching petticoat but theres about 3 2/3 yards so that isn't possible.  Here is the extant that I want to copy.  Note that it is missing the original stomacher.

The back is a basic en forreau style with larger skirt pleats typical of the 50s/60s and larger winged cuffs.

The width of the cuffs really shows in this view.

I decided to use my regular Larkin & Smith English gown pattern, altering it to fit over hip pads and making the sleeves 1 1/2 inches fuller with a winged cuff.  I was working on this one simultaneously with another gown of a similar style. The other gown has folded robings which my research shows to be more prevalent during that time period --at least in the various extants I've seen.  Because my fabric quantity was so limited, I stuck with the separate robings that are standard with the pattern.

I used the same cuff pattern that I had drafted for the other gown.

Here it is almost completed--needing the back facing and lacing strips.

I drafted a back facing to look like that in the pic of the extant.

I decided to make a lace tucker for the neckline.

And made a pinner to wear as I didn't have time to do fancy hair.

Here it is being worn at our February Heritage Sewing and Skill Building Group winter weekend.  Photo by Molly Picture Studio.

Photo by Molly Picture Studio

With my dear friend Ruth.  Photo by Molly Picture Studio.

Notes:  I would like to trim the stomacher.  I feel that it needs some ruched trim.  Also--I normally leave robings hanging and pin them in place.  I stitched these to the gown and added lacing strips.  This meant that I had to draft a new stomacher because with lacing strips you have a defined space that the stomacher must fit.  As luck would have it, I made the stomacher a bit to wide so I had to turn the sides under so it would fit.  I'll correct that and add the trim at the same time.  I love the color of this gown and I'm happy with the outcome.  I think it can be dressed up or worn as a nice day gown.
I also have other petticoats that will work with it.