2021 Costuming Year in Review

Another year done, another group of additions to my costuming wardrobe.  For some reason, I feel like I didn't accomplish as much this year.  I think that is because I seemed to make more accessories than large garments this year.  Needless to say, some accessories are every bit as time consuming as an 18th century gown and some are even more so.  I also spend a good portion of the year researching a new era--the 1920s.  So without further ado, here are my costuming accomplishments:

The first projects were samples for our February workshop which had to be moved online.  We had a quilted pockets class.  After studying a number of extants, I decided on 2 techniques for the pocket construction.  Both were quilted.

1.  Quilted linen pockets, bound with linen tape.  The hippogryphs were taken from from a 1740s quilted petticoat.

2.  Quilted silk pockets based on an extant pair.  These pockets are not bound but have the edges turned in and stitched with running stitch.

3. Another sample for our Feb. workshop which was on making muff covers.  The beading /embroidery design was copied from an extant muff in the Boston Museum of Fine Arts.  The image is printed on      silk.   Detailed post of the muff and pockets here.

4.  1920s underpinnings were a big part of this year. As is typical for me, I worked from the skin out--starting with an envelope chemise from a reprinted antique pattern from Silk and Thimbles on Etsy.

5.  1920's Corselette.  I used a pattern as a foundation for this but ended up totally redesigning it.  I don't like how this one works on me.

6.  1920s silk crepe de chine slip.  I used an image from an antique pattern.  The pieces looked like a 1 hour dress so I just drafted my own pattern for this.

7.  1920s Brassiere.  I started with the Wearing History pattern and changed it to match a brassiere in a 1922 store catalog.   Detailed post of these 4 undergarments here.

8.  One hour dress--self drafted.  This was made as a toile.  I will probably not wear it but I'm glad I made it.  It was enough to show me that this particular 20s shape doesn't work on me.  Detailed post here.

9. 18th century lined silk satin mitts.  These were a copy of a pair in the Bostom Museum of Fine Arts.    Detailed post here.

10.  18th century unlined silk taffeta mitts.  The embroidery was copied from a pair in the Amsterdam Museum.  These were one of 2 pairs I made as class samples for the summer mitts class I taught.

11.  Unlined silk satin fancy mitts.  This was my 2nd sample for the summer mitts class.  

12. 1778 silk taffeta English gown with pleated and ruched trim. Detailed post here.

Here's the gown as worn at the French Occupation at Newport, RI.

13.  2 Masquerades masks for our 18th century masquerade gift swap--paper mache covered with silk velvet, lined with linen and silk taffeta ruffle.

14. Silk mantelette based on Garsault pattern.  Silk taffeta, self lined, interlined with wool, trimmed with rabbit fur.  Detailed post here.

Here's the matelette as worn.

15.   1920s French corset based on several extants.  Detailed post here.

16.  1803 silk workbag with silk embroidery and spangles, copy of extant in the National Trust.  Detailed post here.

17. Annabelle cap: Pattern test for Virgil's Fine Goods new cap pattern!  Be sure to check it out!

19.  French blue lambskin mitts--class sample for leather mitts class.  

I was hoping to have one more outfit to show but it won't be finished today so it will have to be my first completed project for 2022!

It's easy for me to discount my accomplishment because so many of them are small.  Some of the small projects require the same time commitment as a full sized garment though.

Anyway--here's to a productive 2022!  Happy New Year!

18th Century Beaded Silk Muff Cover and other trifles

It's nice to do some small projects --though I have a way of making them into longer projects.  We took our winter workshop series online in February 2021 and our projects were a muff cover with Ruth taught, and quilted pockets which I taught.  I figured I'd do another muff cover since I had some nice silk remnants.  I've always loved these beaded ones pictured below:

The on on top is my favorite so I decided to try to replicate it.  I found a similar turban wearing woman image and printed it on silk using the method described in this post.   After fusing it to the fabric, I decided to look for the appropriate beads before tracing the embroidery.  This was more challenging than I first thought.  I could find them but the weren't necessarily the correct size.  My choice would be to use different beads that were smaller or more similar beads that were larger.  The milky faceted glass beads were the ones that determined this.  I could only find them in size 8.  Size 11 would've been better.  They're glass.  I also found vintage metal flat spangles.  
 

Let's look closely at the original:  It clearly has metal embroidery and spangles which have tarnished.  The stems are couched metal thread.  The bow figure has spangles sewn flat and covered by the white beads.  The "frame" around the portrait, however, appears to be a row of beads with couched metal thread along both sides.

This motif is clearly 3 beads with one spangle.

The ruffle has the spangles stitched flat covered with white beads like the bow at the top.

Here's my reference photo:

I played around with the size of the embroidery image to get the right size for the beads I bought,  converted the image to black and white and used my light tablet to trace the exact image right onto the silk.

I started with the embroidery. I didn't not have the right type of metal thread and used a modern thread that was the right color.  Because it was stranded, I chose to do outline stitch.  Then I stitched the sequins on.

Next came the white beads.  It's amazing how much weight they add to such a small piece!

I decided to not add the ruffles.  I think the proportions would've been off and it would've been too crowded looking as the image and embroidery were larger than the original.

I also added a "strap" of 2 inch wide blue ribbon to use as a "handle" of sorts.  There is an extant muff with this treatment which also has bows at each end of the strap to make it more decorative.

I'm quite pleased with how this one turned out.  The blue matches my quilted petticoat!

The quilted pocket workshop which I taught resulted in my having 2 more pairs of pockets.  The first one is linen bound with linen tape.  I studied the extants I found and they were bound.  I raided my remnant/scrap box and found the yellow linen and decided to use a contrasting thread for the quilting.  I had found an extant quilted bodice that had yellow thread on white fabric so I figured the contrast would show up nicely.  The hippogryph image is from a mid 18th century quilted petticoat from Rhode Island.

The second pair of pockets were based on an extant pair I found for sale in an antiques shop in MI. The seller had posted very detailed pictures of the construction of these pockets.  Unlike the other extants, they were not bound.  I used the same blue silk as the muff cover.

I enjoyed making these projects as they were diversions from the quilted petticoat I need to finish.  I really need to get back on that so I have it to wear this coming winter!

Keeping warm: Upper sort winter wear 1760s-70s -- Part 1

We had an outdoor event last weekend. It was only 4 hours in the middle of the day, but make no mistake.  It was cold.  Fortunately I happen to have a full length red broadcloth cloak that is fully lined with silk.  My head, however, was cold.  Even with a lappet cap which covered my ears.  I find that large cloak hoods either don't stay in place or they just let the cold air in.  

This cloak is great for warmth.  It is bulky and heavy, however, and I do need something more suitable to wear with my silks. We have the Illumination at Mt. Vernon on Dec. 21st and it gets frigid right there on the water at night.  I remember a couple of years ago it was 10 degrees and windy.  I can layer handkerchiefs, petticoats and other under layers but my ears freeze.  In fact our first winter workshop was called "Mitts, Muffs and Hoods" and it focused on warm winter accessories.  Ruth Verbunt had given a wonderful workshop on creating a wool broadcloth hood for warmth and she insists that there is nothing warmer!  So I figured the first winter warmth items I tackle will be a hood, black leather mitts, and a new muff.  I plan on drafting the hood pattern from the shape of the extant at the MFA:

I have black silk velvet, lambswool interlining and black taffeta for lining.  My plan is to interline the hood but not the cape part.   I do have a fur muff that I made from an old fur coat but it may be a little big.  I find my small goose down muff with the silk cover to be really warm so I think I'll make a velvet muff cover with fur trim to put on that.  Between the muff and the mitts, my hands should be toasty.

I have enough velvet to make a short cloak.  I have traced out the pattern for the black lace cloak from Costume Close Up and will either use that shape or make a semi circular short cloak using the  instructions from Sue Felshin.  I'd like to trim the cloak with fur.

Here are inspiration images and docs:

I like the "fluffiness" of this hood and the black lace trim on the cape.

Fur muff.  This one is the size of the muff I currently have.

Another "large-ish" fur muff and tippet.

Small silk cape, small hood that looks like velvet with no cape, small velvet fur trimmed muff.

Another small fur trimmed velvet muff

Short hooded cloak which appears to be either silk or velvet, trimmed with fur

Black velvet hooded cloak, tippet and fur trimmed muff.

Velvet hood with no cape, tippet, velvet cloak lined with contrasting color and fur trimmed muff.

Black velvet hood, short black velvet cloak lined with contrasting color, fur muff

Fur trimmed silk short cloak, fur muff some sort of head wrap

 Small black hood, fur trimmed silk short cloak, fur muff

Velvet short hood, New York 1770

Velvet hood and satin ditto, Providence RI 1767

Fur muff, New York 1768

Black velvet cloak with black tammy lining, Philadelphia 1768

Black velvet cloak and black peelong cardinal trimmed with gimp, New York 1763

So my work is cut out for me:  hood, leather mitts and muff to be finished within the next week.  Longer term project will be a velvet cloak.