Farewell LaFayette!

 The terrific tour of the Marquis de LaFayette in 1824-25 is coming to a close.  We had an all day event on Tuesday July 29 in 100+ degree heat.  Since the heat was more or less expected, I decided to make a new summery frock.  I was unable to finish it in time due to unforeseen circumstances but I did end up finishing it a couple of days later so I will still be able to wear it for the last month of LaFayette's visit.  

I basically constructed this 1825 gown the same way as I did the print gown in this post but with short sleeves.  Because time was of the essense, I did not piece the horizontal trim on the skirt.  I simply made a long strip, applied the piping then hand stitched it over the skirt.  I'm not sure how I feel about the way it looks but it works.  I also chose to place the front bodice somewhat on the bias to take advantage of the stripes.  I cut it at a 60 degree angle.  Thank God for quilting rulers. The front is underlined with linen cut on grain.

As done with my other 1920s gowns, I used a lot of piping!  The back closure isn't complete as I'm still trying to decide between using dorset wheel buttons or ties.  These back closing bodices are the one thing I dislike about this era.

Here is the completed gown:

Obviously I needed an airy summer bonnet so I ordered the largest sisal hat body from Judith M millinery supply.  I like 1820s bonnets as many of them are shaped more like hats.  I have various things around the house that I use to block hat/bonnet crowns.  In this case I used an extra large coffee can.    For the brim, I used the Timely Tresses Sophia bonnet pattern and cut the brim out of pasteboard.  After soaking toe form in water I put it on the can and worked it around the brim form folding under a hem on the brim.  Once dry, the bonnet was somewhat stiff.  I used my machine to zigzag stitch millinery wire to the edge of the brim and trimmed the hem of the straw to about 1/4 inch.  Most of my supplies were from my stash.  I had white satin double folded bias tape that I used on the brim edge and the 4 inch wide moiré ribbon was left over from the blue silk bonnet I made last fall.  Before trimming, I gave it a good saturating spray with gelatin sizing and steamed it well.  Vintage millinery flowers completed the look.  

Bonnet next to blocking forms

Here is the bonnet as worn:

I was really bummed at first that I couldn't get the new gown done in time for this event but I think I was better off with the long sleeves in that hot sun.  I will update with more pics when I wear the gown.  

This basic design has served me well.  I've been able to get 5 completely different gowns out of the same basic pattern block.  Gotta love that!