If you notice--rather than a band that goes across the front of the cap, these caps have 2 half moon "ears" with ruffles sewn to the caul. I have a particular round eared cap pattern that I particularly like as the band fits just right and it has 2 sizes of cauls--both of which accommodate all my hair. To change to a dormeuse style of cap, I measured the full length of the band, took one half of that measurement to figure out the length of each "ear" with the ruffle sewn on. This took a little experimenting. I decided on a 2 inch wide ruffle so the length of my finished half moon would have to be 1/2 the band length minus 4 inches. I added hem allowances of 1/4 inch to all edges and finished all edges with tiny hems. The length of the ruffles were twice the length of the curved edge of the cap ears. The ruffles were pleated to the curved edge of the ears with the short edge of each ruffle extending the flat edge of each ear. I used some leftover silk organza (like 18th century silk gauze) from Dharma Trading Company.
I tacked the point of each ruffle together in the center front then roll whip gathered the caul to the ears. The caul had been made according to my normal method with an eyelet and draw string in the back. I had cut some extra strips of the silk so I narrowly hemmed them using one to make a row of puffing along the seam line between the ears and the caul and two others to do a serpentine trim on the seam line between the ruffle and the ears.
Here is the center front so you can see how the ruffles meet.
Here is the finished cap. It still needs a big loopy bow in the front.
I was pleased with the way this cap turned out and glad I cut patterns for the new pieces!
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