The terrific tour of the Marquis de LaFayette in 1824-25 is coming to a close. We had an all day event on Tuesday July 29 in 100+ degree heat. Since the heat was more or less expected, I decided to make a new summery frock. I was unable to finish it in time due to unforeseen circumstances but I did end up finishing it a couple of days later so I will still be able to wear it for the last month of LaFayette's visit.
I basically constructed this 1825 gown the same way as I did the print gown in this post but with short sleeves. Because time was of the essense, I did not piece the horizontal trim on the skirt. I simply made a long strip, applied the piping then hand stitched it over the skirt. I'm not sure how I feel about the way it looks but it works. I also chose to place the front bodice somewhat on the bias to take advantage of the stripes. I cut it at a 60 degree angle. Thank God for quilting rulers. The front is underlined with linen cut on grain.
As done with my other 1920s gowns, I used a lot of piping! The back closure isn't complete as I'm still trying to decide between using dorset wheel buttons or ties. These back closing bodices are the one thing I dislike about this era.
Here is the completed gown:
Obviously I needed an airy summer bonnet so I ordered the largest sisal hat body from Judith M millinery supply. I like 1820s bonnets as many of them are shaped more like hats. I have various things around the house that I use to block hat/bonnet crowns. In this case I used an extra large coffee can. For the brim, I used the Timely Tresses Sophia bonnet pattern and cut the brim out of pasteboard. After soaking toe form in water I put it on the can and worked it around the brim form folding under a hem on the brim. Once dry, the bonnet was somewhat stiff. I used my machine to zigzag stitch millinery wire to the edge of the brim and trimmed the hem of the straw to about 1/4 inch. Most of my supplies were from my stash. I had white satin double folded bias tape that I used on the brim edge and the 4 inch wide moiré ribbon was left over from the blue silk bonnet I made last fall. Before trimming, I gave it a good saturating spray with gelatin sizing and steamed it well. Vintage millinery flowers completed the look.
Bonnet next to blocking forms
Here is the bonnet as worn:
I was really bummed at first that I couldn't get the new gown done in time for this event but I think I was better off with the long sleeves in that hot sun. I will update with more pics when I wear the gown.
This basic design has served me well. I've been able to get 5 completely different gowns out of the same basic pattern block. Gotta love that!
