So you want to be a Suffragette!

 2018 is the 100 year anniversary of the end of The Great War (World War I) and the final battle in the struggle for women's suffrage.  United states women got a boost in their efforts in 1918 when President Woodrow Wilson changed his mind and decided to support women in their effort to obtain the right to vote.  In earlier years, President Wilson had been somewhat lukewarm toward the cause but protests reached a peak in 1917 when women picketed the White House, were arrested, jailed and went on a hunger strike.  Wilson was horrified to learn that the jailed suffragists were being force-fed so he finally stepped up to champion their cause.  The Suffragists believed that Wilson and the country had a debt to pay after asking them to support sending their sons and husbands to war and also working to support the war here at the home front.  On September 30, 1918 President Wilson gave a speech to Congress which included the following:

This war could not have been fought, either by the other nations engaged or by America, if it had not been for the services of women – services rendered in every sphere – not merely in the fields of effort in which we have been accustomed to see them work, but wherever men have worked and upon the very skirts and edges of the battle itself. We shall not only be distrusted but shall deserve to be distrusted if we do not enfranchise them with the fullest possible enfranchisement, as it is now certain that the other great free nations will enfranchise them … The executive tasks of this war rest upon me. I ask that you lighten them and place in my hands instruments, spiritual instruments, which I do not now possess, which I sorely need, and which I have daily to apologize for not being able to employ.

Wilson's words on that day failed to sway the necessary votes to pass the amendment.  The bill died in the Senate and it would be another year before Congress finally passed the 19th amendment giving women the right to vote.

We are celebrating 100 years by having a Suffragette Tea this November and we will be dressing as Suffragettes from 1918.  What does that look like?  Well, for those of you who don't do historical costuming--particularly from this time period, you're in luck.  This is an easy one to do on a dime--possibly even with things you already have or can find at your local thrift store!

Let's first look at what women wore.  I like starting with the underpinnings as that is what gives each era it's easily identifiable silhouette.  In my research I've found that the underwear of 1918 isn't that different than later 20th century shape wear.  WWI brought many changes--one being the end of the corset.  The first decade of the 20th century held on to some of the traditions of the 1890's in terms of fashion.  The corsets of that era gave us the pigeon breast or S-look seen in pictures of the Gibson girls.  As we move past the Titanic era, (1912 - 1914), we start seeing under the bust corsets that are constructed much like the open bottom girdles of the 1950's and 60's.  These corsets were still worn over a chemise with a corset cover over them though the closer we got to the 1920's the more we started seeing some early brassieres.  Here are some examples of underwear from 1918:

Note the under bust corset over the chemise.  The chemise is snug to offer a little support.

Here we have an early brassiere ca. 1918.  You can see that it is not terribly structured.

So how can you get this look in modern times?  Given that the corset doesn't change the basic shape that much--basically just pulls in the waist a bit and firms things up, your modern day shape wear can offer the same look.  Basically, these garments just get rid of muffin top and the jiggles we all have.  Simple shape wear, bike shorts etc. with a not terribly supportive bra would probably give you a similar appearance.  Since this time period is so similar to later periods, my advice is do what you are comfortable with.  The fit of the outer garments is loose enough where your underpinnings won't change it that much.

Next up:  Main garments --frocks, skirts, blouses (known as shirtwaists).

We've moved past the skinny floor length skirts of the first decade.  Skirts are getting shorter.  Bodices have a "blousy" look to them.  They have armholes that are close to the body as in they aren't oversized like modern tops but they aren't fitted through the bodice.  There are a variety of collar styles which include shawl collars, sailor collars, simple found collars and plain round necklines. Frocks of this period still have a waistline which will drop and become much less fitted when we get into the 1920's.  A lot of frocks have shorter over skirts and 2 piece dresses are also common.  Skirts and blouses as well as matching skirts and jackets are also popular.

Delineator May 1918

Delineator July 1918

Sears Catalog 1918

Sears Catalog 1918

Sears Catalog 1917

1917 Pattern book

1918

1914-1919

1918

Silk dress 1918

1918

 1918 Wool Suit

1918 Wool Suit

My advice for costuming on a shoe string?  Find or make a basic skirt with an A-line shape that hits between your ankle and mid calf.  You could do one that buttons in the front or is plain.  A nice striped silk or cotton as well as a wool would work.  The main thing here is that the skirt sit at the waistline or above.  Low waisted garments didn't appear for several more years.  A white blouse with a higher neckline--even a men's wear shirt with a cravat--would be perfect.  Make a fabric sash or wear a fabric/leather belt and you're good to go!

Shoes are also easy for this period.  The main thing you want to look for is a chunkier heel.  You see both rounded and pointed toes.  Here are some period examples:

 1918 Black leather Mary Janes

1918 Pumps

1918 Leather Oxfords

French silk pumps 1918

1918 Leather boots

Hats are the next accessory you don't want to be without.  Your local thrift store is your best bet here as this is the time of year they're putting out the straw hats for spring.  You can keep the hat as straw, cover it with satin or velvet then add whatever level of trim you would like.  The most prominent feature is the rounded crown.  You can easily reblock a straw hat with a squared off crown.  Simply wet the straw and shape it over a mixing bowl that's about the right size until it dries. Trim is quite varied on hats of this period. You see wide bands with bows, flowers, feathers and netting.  Here are some period examples:

1918 Straw hat

1918 fabric covered, timmed hat

1917 velvet hat

Velvet hat 1918

Outing hat 1918

Here's the haul I got at the thrift store yesterday--all half price!  For less than $10 I got 4 hats.  Some will be reblocked, cut up and redone into Regency bonnets but one of them will be my 1918 hat. 

My other find was these pumps with the perfect shaped heel.

And of course, no Suffragette outfit is complete without a sash!

You can purchase an authentic Votes for Women sash from T.H. Clothiers here.

For those of you who would enjoy the challenge of making an authentic outfit from this period, I recommend the following patterns:
Corset:  Truly Victorian Late Edwardian Corset
Chemise:  Wearing History 1917 Chemise   (Note--this is also available as a downloadable pattern from their etsy shop.
Corset cover:  Both Wearing History and Truly Victorian have patterns for corset covers.
Wearing History has a WWI suit pattern that is multisized.  I believe Butterick patterns has something from this period as well.
Past Patterns has a number of patterns from this time period, many of which are reprints of antiques.

Celebrate the right of women to vote!  We earned it!