Introducing Tiny Tabitha!

 Let me introduce you to Tiny Tabitha!  I've never been one to name my dress forms but I decided she needed an identity.  She's a half size form.  I found the pattern for her in an article on Scribd.  If you do not have a subscription to Scribd, the creator does have a downloadable pattern available on Etsy.  The pattern included 1/4, 1/3 and 1/2 scale versions.  I went with the half size scale.  Since I planned on using her with teaching demos, I chose to make her out of plain osnaburg linen.  I also decided to change the base a bit, choosing to use a wood plaque in lieu of the weighted cardboard base shown in the pattern.  She was a bit fiddly to sew but the process was interesting.  Here is the finished product:

I discovered that the pattern creator also had a pattern for arms on her Etsy site so I added them and painted the base:

Next up:  Under pinnings.  

I ordered the half sized shift and under petticoat pattern from B&T.  I modified the sleeves and a few other details on the shift as I wanted the shift to have sleeve buttons and an open cuff.

Note the laundry mark!

I didn't have any buttons small enough to use so I cut off the legs from some paper brads and curved them into button shanks.  The size was just right!

Here she is in her shift (Jordie for scale):

Next up--stays!  I wanted strapless fully boned stays.  There's a lovely line drawing on the JP Ryan stays pattern which my stays are made from so I used that line drawing and sized the width of the stays laying flat to the measurement I computed would fit Tiny Tabitha.  I then cut a fitting muslin from heavy interfacing, all in one piece with no seams.

I found this mock up to be fairly close though it was clearly too short.  I made the adjustments then cut it out of pink worsted and linen canvas, sewing the boning channels by hand.  I also added 1/8 inch tape to where the seamlines would be to give the illusion that the stays were made in sections.  Here they are before the boning channels are finished.

After boning them, the top was bound with white lambskin.  The tabs were split and the bottom portion of the stays were lined with the same lambskin, stitched right sides together with the fashion fabric which was much less tedious then attempting to bind the tabs.  A pink and white checked linen lining was added last.

Now to work on getting her dressed!

This has been an enjoyable project so far and she will come in handy for mantua making demonstrations.  The best thing is that I can make a garment for her using remnants from my own gowns!  I'll post her wardrobe as it develops.

Farewell LaFayette!

 The terrific tour of the Marquis de LaFayette in 1824-25 is coming to a close.  We had an all day event on Tuesday July 29 in 100+ degree heat.  Since the heat was more or less expected, I decided to make a new summery frock.  I was unable to finish it in time due to unforeseen circumstances but I did end up finishing it a couple of days later so I will still be able to wear it for the last month of LaFayette's visit.  

I basically constructed this 1825 gown the same way as I did the print gown in this post but with short sleeves.  Because time was of the essense, I did not piece the horizontal trim on the skirt.  I simply made a long strip, applied the piping then hand stitched it over the skirt.  I'm not sure how I feel about the way it looks but it works.  I also chose to place the front bodice somewhat on the bias to take advantage of the stripes.  I cut it at a 60 degree angle.  Thank God for quilting rulers. The front is underlined with linen cut on grain.

As done with my other 1920s gowns, I used a lot of piping!  The back closure isn't complete as I'm still trying to decide between using dorset wheel buttons or ties.  These back closing bodices are the one thing I dislike about this era.

Here is the completed gown:

Obviously I needed an airy summer bonnet so I ordered the largest sisal hat body from Judith M millinery supply.  I like 1820s bonnets as many of them are shaped more like hats.  I have various things around the house that I use to block hat/bonnet crowns.  In this case I used an extra large coffee can.    For the brim, I used the Timely Tresses Sophia bonnet pattern and cut the brim out of pasteboard.  After soaking toe form in water I put it on the can and worked it around the brim form folding under a hem on the brim.  Once dry, the bonnet was somewhat stiff.  I used my machine to zigzag stitch millinery wire to the edge of the brim and trimmed the hem of the straw to about 1/4 inch.  Most of my supplies were from my stash.  I had white satin double folded bias tape that I used on the brim edge and the 4 inch wide moiré ribbon was left over from the blue silk bonnet I made last fall.  Before trimming, I gave it a good saturating spray with gelatin sizing and steamed it well.  Vintage millinery flowers completed the look.  

Bonnet next to blocking forms

Here is the bonnet as worn:

I was really bummed at first that I couldn't get the new gown done in time for this event but I think I was better off with the long sleeves in that hot sun.  I will update with more pics when I wear the gown.  

This basic design has served me well.  I've been able to get 5 completely different gowns out of the same basic pattern block.  Gotta love that!

Fast Forward 200 years: 1970s short caftan

The one Patreon I subscribe to is Gertie's Charm Patterns patreon.  She has an annual theme and you receive a monthly free pattern only available to members along with other goodies.  This year's theme is old Hollywood glamour.  The May pattern was inspired by Elizabeth Taylor, known for wearing long flowing caftans in her later years.

I had never given much thought to making a caftan but the photos of the new pattern were intriguing so I though I'd start with a short version.

I was delighted to find a Liberty of London Tana Lawn print that was a reprint from a 1969 print.

I didn't take any construction pics but it's pretty clear cut.  The front has the fitted bodice inset.  Inside there is a wide elastic belt that hooks in the back with bra hooks that pulls the front belt fitted to the body.

Here's the finished caftan:

And pics of me in it!

I have to say--this is the most comfortable thing I've worn on my body in years!  The lawn is so incredibly cool and it feels glorious against my skin.  As such, I found a flowy rayon tropical print with flamingos to make a long version.  Yes--I've become THAT old lady. LOL

"Charlstown is laid in ashes. The Battle began upon our intrenchments upon Bunkers Hill . . ."

The Death of General Warren at the Battle by John Trumbull

"Dearest Friend

The Day; perhaps the decisive Day is come on which the fate of America depends. My bursting Heart must find vent at my pen. I have just heard that our dear Friend Dr. Warren is no more but fell gloriously fighting for his Country -- saying better to die honourably in the field than ignominiously hang upon the Gallows. Great is our Loss. He has distinguished himself in every engagement, by his courage and fortitude, by animating the Soldiers and leading them on by his own example. A particuliar account of these dreadful, but I hope Glorious Days will be transmitted you, no doubt in the exactest manner.

The race is not to the swift, nor the battle to the strong, but the God of Israel is he that giveth strength and power unto his people. Trust in him at all times, ye people pour out your hearts before him. God is a refuge for us. -- Charlstown is laid in ashes. The Battle began upon our intrenchments upon Bunkers Hill, a Saturday morning about 3 o clock and has not ceased yet and tis now  [illegible]  3 o'clock Sabbeth afternoon.

Tis expected they will come out over the Neck to night, and a dreadful Battle must ensue. Almighty God cover the heads of our Country men, and be a shield to our Dear Friends. How [many have] fallen we know not -- the constant roar of the cannon is so  [illegible]  [distressing] that we can not Eat, Drink or Sleep. May we be supported and sustaind in the dreadful conflict. I shall tarry here till tis thought unsafe by my Friends, and then I have secured myself a retreat at your Brothers who has kindly offerd me part of his house. I cannot compose myself to write any further at present. I will add more as I hear further. . ."

(from a letter by Abigail Adams to John, June 18, 1775)

The 250th anniversary of the Battle of Bunker Hill was held this past weekend at Stage Fort Park in Gloucester. I've always been interested in this event since my 4th gr grandfather fought in this battle.  I think many of us were curious as to how it would go not being in the original location but there simply is no room in Charlestown for such an event.  The park was perfect--on the water and with a large hill.  The planning was very impressive in terms of the faithful adherence to the tactical details and the different stages of the battle.  Of course there was no one left in Charlestown at the time and so many had left Boston.  A representation of civilians was planned and much of our interpretation was in talking about how our lives had changed between the events of April 1775 and this event.

I chose to portray Mrs. Mecom, milliner from Boston. 

I couldn't find much information about Mrs. Mecom other than this ad so I chose to represent her as a woman sympathetic to the cause of independence who would have chosen to leave Boston during the siege.   As such, Mrs. Mecom grabbed what she could carry from her shop in hopes of being able to make some money to support herself.   As is always the case, I needed to come up with some pieces of material culture so I made a milliner's trunk from a polka dotted pasteboard trunk I picked up on clearance at Michaels.  

Here is the finished trunk:

I used hand block printed Italian paper that was like the ones used in the 18th century to cover the box.  It had rope handles on the sides that I removed.  I added the brass handle on top.  It was added last with a thin wood strip on the inside of the lid for support.

The inside of the trunk was lined with pages from the Maryland Gazette printed on laid linen paper.  I chose the Oct. 10, 1765 edition as it was about the Stamp Act and it had a deaths head stamp which I like.

I like how it turned out.  The clasp isn't very secure and I suspect I may need to replace that.  I just have to figure out how to pry this one off because it is riveted on instead of screwed.

I also made a sign which I've been meaning to do for years.  I've operated under "The Sign of the Yellow Cat" for decades and use that when I portray various needle trades such as milliner, mantua maker or stay maker so I made a sign.

Last up, I wanted to make a summer linen gown that could be dressed up.  I have a great lower sort gown but I felt that a plain lightweight linen gown with a fine stripe and white ground would be perfect for the hot summer.  Such a gown can be worn with plain accessories for lower/middln' sorts and finer accessories for upper middlin'.

This gown is made from my folded robing English gown that I drafted some years ago.  I much prefer this style to one with loose robing strips.  It's extremely plain.  I found this gown to be incredibly comfortable.  It's about handkerchief linen weight.

Here are some photos from the event:

Millinery display

Visiting with friends

Working on a calash

On the run

I know I'll get a lot of use out of both projects.  The gown will be worn all summer as it's extremely comfortable.

Caught in the Storm of War . . . Dressing for 1775 New England

This is a fairly short post as I was on such a tight deadline that I didn't take many construction photos. Since this was the 250th Anniversary of the start of the American War for Independence, I thought I'd make something new.  The women participating in the evacuation of the various residences in Minuteman National Historic Park are portraying middle sort women in 1775.  Dress was on the conservative side.  I planned on wearing my satin bonnet which I made as a demo piece in a workshop I taught in January.  The clothing standards indicate that wool stomacher gowns were to be worn.  Fortunately, I've been sitting on about 8 - 10 yards of imported super 360 wool/cashmere tropical weight suiting that I had bought in one of the selling groups on Facebook.  It's amazing as it feels like pima cotton and is very lightweight so I figured it would work for any weather situation.  New England in April can be all over the map weatherwise! 

I made a gown using the the bodice I had drafted in this post.  I really prefer folded robings to robing strips.  The gown was made with a fitted plain sleeve.  This is really a solid mid 1770s plain gown.  I've used this bodice pattern with some variations in a number of gowns, mostly 1760s,  and it's basically my tried and true pattern at this point. 

I wanted this gown and petticoat to be a bit shorter.  I've made this enough times that I don't really try it on until I'm attaching the shoulder strap in the back to be sure the armscye fits. I figured I should at least double check it before I pack it up and head north.

Here's a better photo on the dress form.  Both of these photos are without a shift and underpetticoat so the skirts look a bit flat.

It was great to get this done with fabric from my stash.  I still have 4 yards left so I will probably make something 1940s with the leftovers.

I also wanted to do a nicer middlin' style short cloak.  My original red one is okay but it's more of a lower sort and my others are all upper sort.  I had some black wool in my stash that seems to be between a broadcloth and a plush.  It has a hard edge.  I used Sue Felshin's, which I've used before.  A good friend of mind had made a paper pattern and copied it for me which was a great time saver.  Mohair trimmed cloaks have fascinated me for some time so I decided to trim this one with mohair and to only have a small cape and collar.

The mohair is from a supplier on Etsy.  The fabric backing is woven.  I bought one half a yard and it's about 54 inches wide.  I ended up only using a little over half of what I bought so there would've been enough for a hood had I decided to make one.  Whenever there is fur, one has to be careful to only cut the backing and avoid cutting the fur nap itself.  I decided to try to solve that problem by tearing my strips.  Determining the width of the strips was the first task.  3 inches looked right on the bottom of the cloak itself with 2 inches being better for the cape.  The front edges ended up being 1.5 inches wide.  I snipped through the selvedge and gave it a good tug and was amazed at how easily it tore!  The nap definitely lays in one direction so I had to make sure I applied the pieces going in the same direction.  The mohair is torn on grain and is applied to a curved surface so the top edge of the mohair has to be slightly eased.  

The long edges of the mohair were left raw and the short ends were turned under when pinned in place.

I whip stitched the bottom edge in place but found that process to be a bit frustrating as the whip stitched kept catching the fur.  This took longer as I had to stop and pull the fur out.  I ended up using a running stitch for the remainder of the mohair as I found I could insert my needle under the fur when stitching and go faster.  The last thing was sewing on the black wool tape ties.

I simply love how this turned out--even with the white cat hair on it!

I wore my gown with a medium weight white linen apron and a white linen handkerchief with a blue border.  Sadly I didn't get too many photos of these garments in action but I was very comfortable in them.  I know I'll get a lot of use out of them.

Checking things in the Lexington Historic Masonic Lodge:

Lexington Green--saying goodbye to our militia men as they prepare for the Regulars:

In the kitchen at Hartwell Tavern, Minuteman National Historic Park:

I know I'll get a lot of use out of both of these pieces--especially the gown which can probably be worn year round.  Now to think about linen for the hot Mid Atlantic summer!