Quickie Project: 1780s Indienne Italian Gown with Linen Batiste Petticoat

 There's nothing better than knocking out a gown/petticoat from your stash.  I've been sitting on this Indienne voile that I got in 2016.  I love this fabric as it's the only one I've found with several shades of indigo blue.  The seller no longer has an account so I'm glad I got it when I did. I had always had it earmarked for an Italian gown so I got to work this week as I thought something this light and airy would be perfect for July 4 at Mount Vernon--particularly since the weather report predicted the temp to be in the 90s with high humidity.

I used the same Italian gown pattern that I drafted in this post.  There are a few small differences which I will describe.  The bodice went together quickly--the back 4 pieces with lining were constructed with English stitch then the side back/front was stitched on.

The fabric is 44-45 inches wide so I used three lengths and just seamed them together at the selvedge edges and hemmed the front edges with running stitch.  I pleated the skirt with a 4 inch deep inverted pleat at center back then stacked smaller pleats on top.

The bodice was pinned over the pleats after slashing the skirt top in the center of the inverted pleats.  This enables you to angle the pleats around the point of the bodice.  The bodice was stitched on with appliqué stitch then the remainder of the lining was inserted.

The sleeves were trimmed with Swiss organdy.

Since this gown has a slight train, I wanted internal ties to be able to pull the skirt up.  I stitched 1/4 inch linen tape at the waist where the skirt seams are and 18 inches lower on the skirt seams.  The pieces of tape are around 15 inches long.

To pull the skirt up, just tie the ties before putting it on!

I had been hoarding this super fine linen from Larkin & Smith--it really is good cap linen.   I had just enough for a petticoat if I cut the petticoat a little shorter.  I was able to get 4 widths 9 inches wide for the ruffle.  The ruffle sections were seamed at the selvedge edges then the long edges were roll hemmed.  The strip was pinned to the petticoat at the quarter points and I freehanded box pleats that were secured with a prick stitch.  The ruffle hangs about 2 inches below the petticoat hem.

The petticoat was hemmed to be worn over a 1780s bum pad.  If wearing the gown skirt down, I would probably wear my split bum but I chose to wear this one instead.

This is the lightest, airiest summer gown I own.  I decided to wear my plain, super sheer half handkerchief and apron and my big organdy cap.

At Mount Vernon waiting for the fireworks.

I'm very happy with the way this gown turned out.  It may be a new favorite and I know I'll have plenty of use for the petticoat!