Late 18th Century/ Early 19th Century Umbrella

“Mankind are divided into two great classes in reference to umbrellas—one which buys umbrellas, and one which does not.” (Graham’s Illustrated Magazine of Literature, Romance, Art, and Fashion, Volume 10f)

I picked up a little tattered Edwardian parasol a couple of years ago with the intent of covering it in silk for 18th century and Regency use.  I decided to do some research.  First of all--there's a lovely blog with the history of umbrellas here.  Here are some period images:

1770s

Copley 1760s

1760s

1784

1780s

1787

1797

Extants:

An ad from Boston 1774 for umbrella sticks but also for the service of making new covers.  I also found other ads that sold both finished umbrellas and umbrella sticks to be covered.

I looked at many more images and the majority of them showed green umbrellas.  There were some pink, red, blue and white as well but very few compared to green.

I performed a newspaper search from 1770 - 1820 to find what term is proper.  The term "parasol" starts appearing for sale in ads in 1797.  Prior to that they appear to be called umbrellas.  The only earlier reference I found was numerous accounts of a balloon being built in Paris which will resemble a "simple parasol."  This reference was from 1795.

Unless you have purchased a mass produced umbrella frame that comes with a pattern specifically made to fit, you will have to make your own pattern to fit your frame.

My little parasol definitely needs to be recovered but first things first.  It's important to carefully inspect your parasol to assess the condition and analyze its construction.  Obviously the cover is tattered here.  One thing that really struck me also is that this parasol has 7 spines instead of the usual 6 or 8.

The fabric is a super lightweight China silk with a plaid formed out of cords.  Fortunately the cords are what kept the cover from completely disintegrating.  You can see where the spines are stitched to the cover .

Scalloped circle of silk that goes between the spines and the cover.

Mechanism

Double rosette on top of the parasol--typical of Edwardian parasols

I carefully removed the cover, being careful to keep it intact.

This is the end of the spine--note the hole for stitching the points.

Cover after removal.

scalloped circle

I inspected the cover and found a section that was in decent shape so that I could make a pattern. I pinned the section to my blocking board along the seams and at the hem, stretching it as tightly as I could.  If you bought umbrella that was completely missing its cover, you can find directions for making a pattern here.  

Using Swedish tracing paper, I traced the seam lines and the hem.

I added 1/2 inch seam allowance to one side and and 1/4 inch or so to the hem area then folded the pattern in half to make sure it was symmetrical.

After cutting the pattern out, I checked for fit by laying it over the parasol cover section and it seemed to fit.

Umbrella sections are cut on the straight of grain.  This is very important so as to keep the cover taut.  Make sure to draw a grain line on your pattern and lay it out.  I was able to get mine into a little over 1/2 yard of 58 inch taffeta.

I decided to construct this entirely by hand since I intend to use it for 18th century and Regency time periods.  It was a great opportunity to practice the smallest running stitches I could muster.  I took a back stitch every 6 - 8 stitches or so and stopped stitching 1/8 inch from the center edge to leave an opening for the top of the parasol.

Here are all the sections stitched together.

Umbrella seams are double stitched--turning the seam allowance in on itself (raw edges showing are okay) and stitched again.  This gives a hard edge for stitching to the spines.  I didn't worry about the size of my stitches for this as they didn't contribute to the structure.  After turning and stitching all of the seam allowances, I used my appliqué scissors to trim the excess (untrimmed on left, trimmed on right).

I roll hemmed the edge and turned under and stitched the hole in the center. (outside)

(inside)

A 3 inch circle was cut with scalloping shears--the same size as the original.  I cut a hole in the center and just whip stitched around that to keep it from raveling.

To assemble the umbrella, first the little circle goes on.

Then the cover is placed on top.  Try to pull opposite points of the cover over the spine points to check the fit.  This was difficult for me because with 7 spines, there were no opposite points!

To secure the cover, use a double strand of thread and insert your needle through the seam allowance near one of the points of the cover.  You do NOT want the needle to go through the cover itself.  REMEMBER TO RELAX THE FRAME BEFORE STITCHING THE COVER.  I just loosened it so it was still open about 3/4 of the way.

Now grip the cover and spine point and stick the needle through the little hole in the spine point.

Wrap the thread around and take a stitch through the cover point.

Wrap the thread around the point over the cover 2 or 3 times, going through the metal loop on the tip each time.

Then knot off the thread.

Here it is with all of the tips stitched:

Now it's time to secure the center of each spine.  Cut some small scraps of your fabric--1 for each spine.  I cut mine about 1/2 x 3/4 inch or so.  These will be placed over the spine to keep it from cutting into the thread.  Using a double thread, take a stitch through the seam allowance.

fold a little scrap and take a running stitch through it.

wrap the thread around the spine and insert the needle through the seam allowance again.

Pull the thread taut and wrap the thread around the spine and through the seam allowance one or two more times before knotting off.

Here are all the spines stitched.

Last is the rosette for the top.  Edwardian umbrellas seem to have a double rosette but I thought I'd make a single one.  I'm not sure they are a feature of 18th century umbrellas but one is needed to fill in the hole at the top. Mine could probably be smaller.  Cut a strip of fabric your desired size.  I cut mine 2.5 inches by 9 inches.  I seamed the short ends then turned the edges in about 1/4 inch.

I folded the tube in half wrong sides together --but did not press the fold.  Then I whip gathered the two edges together and pulled to gather.

I placed the rosette on the parasol and pulled the gathers as tight as I could before tying the thread off.  It is advisable to perhaps take a single stitch or two from the rosette center to the center opening of the parasol cover to prevent the rosette from falling off.

Being finished, I thought I'd evaluate the project.  I can see some slack in the cover below where the spine is stitched.

You can see where it is a little loose in the lower right hand part of this picture.

The inside looks good

The folds lay nicely.

I'm pleased with the appearance of the parasol.

I plan on tweaking this by ripping out the stitches on the umbrella tips and pulling the cover tighter and restitching.  I think I may have added just a little too much to the hem allowance of my pattern but this is easily fixed.   I think next time I have the opportunity to do this again, I'll just stitch the tips with one stitch, stitch the center of the spines then go back, stretch it along the spines and secure the tips to tighten it up.

Over all, I'm still pleased with this project.  I enjoyed the learning process of analyzing the construction and figuring it all out.