Missing in Action--catching up!

It's been a long time since I last posted.  Sometimes life gets in the way.  Turns out that late last fall I starting having some extremely painful cervical spine issues requiring physical therapy which made it difficult to do hand sewing.  I tend to bend my neck when I hand sew.  I decided to use the time to catch up on some quickie machine sewing tasks.

I have so many cotton and cotton/lycra knits in my stash that I finally decided to whip up some pjs.  I love wearing knit pj pants with t-shirts.  I keep a collection of sleeping t-shirts in long and short sleeves as well as tank tops but I did get some new shirts for my new pjs.

I found a cute pattern on Etsy for summer pjs (which I still have to make) and decided to use that pants pattern since it was made for stretchy knits.  I realized after printing out the pattern that it had no side seam which is a problem as I like to have in seam pockets so I needed to add a side seam and a pocket.  

I really like the pocket construction in my Maryland flag lounge pants.  It's folded along the free vertical edge and the top of the pocket is caught in the waistband to keep it from flopping in place.  So I decided to just copy that one. 

The rest of the process went pretty smoothly.  I like the way the elastic and drawstring go together on this pattern.  One thing I realized, though, is that I need to start using my serger again.  I'll have to take it in for a tune up because sewing knits on the sewing machine takes longer.

Here are the finished PJs:

These pants are soooo comfortable.  These cotton/lycra knits are fairly meaty so I'll need to get some lightweight cotton jersey to make some summer ones.  This is one of the reasons I'll miss Joann Fabrics so much.  They had the best selection of cotton printed knits and I've amased quite a stash of them.  Some were for the grand which never got made but they'll make great pjs for me!

Next up is the skeleton print tunic.  I've had this fabric in my stash for years.   I made the grand a similar tunic when she was 4 (she's now 9!).  I love this print.  The other print is for another project.

I made the pink version but without the hood.  I love hoods but they can get in the way for workout clothing.  I did follow the pattern method for the neck band.

The last of the quickie sewing projects was one I've been sitting on for a year.  It's the Society Dress from Gertie's patreon.  It's a solid 1940s style knit dress.  I bought the rayon knit over a year ago for this project and realized that I do not like working with these slinky type knits.  I like the final result though.

This type of dress would be a great travel piece as you can literally roll it up into a ball and shove in a backpack!  I have another of these cut out of the black print with moons and stars (pictured above with the skeleton print).  That print is a more stable cotton/lycra knit.  I need to fine tune the fit a bit more as it was still a little long waisted on me.

Last up, I whipped up a quick knitting pattern:  One of the many versions of the Miss Marple scarf that you can find on Ravelry.  I had some white wool Cascade 220 in my stash and literally ran out about 1 inch from the end of the project.  I was able to get another skein.

I really like this pattern a lot.  The design is very clever--the way one side feeds through an opening on the other.  It keeps it snugged up against the neck which is nice and warm!

I guess being sidelined didn't completely render me completely unproductive. LOL.  I'm back at making history clothing.  I'm also looking forward to making more modern stuff--some which has already been cut out!

2025 Year in Review

When I start these posts, I always think I didn't get much done.  Then when I add it all up, I realize I did. I guess I'm judging my quantity of work on modern standards involving machine sewing.  There are a few of projects that fall in that category.  The rest are all hand sewn and often involve patterning as well.  This post includes a few non sewing history items that were needed for various impressions.

1. Silk bonnet with taffeta trim 

    This was done using my own pattern that I designed for workshops.  The pattern has 3 brims and 2 

    cauls.  This is the small caul and brim #2.

2.  Black taffeta sack  (self drafted)

     I had actually started this a couple of years ago and it had been languishing on my mannequin ever   

     since until we decided to do a funeral/mourning program which gave me the motivation I needed.

3.  Silk gauze half hankerchief with French Valenciennes lace.

4.  Silk gauze double ruffles with French Valenciennes lace

5.  Tropical weight wool/cashmere stuff English gown (self drafted)

     I love this gown.  It feels like pima cotton.  This, the bonnet and cloak were made for the 250th of  

     Battle Road.

6.  Black broadcloth cloak with mohair trim

     Sue Felshin's pattern which was put on paper by Ruth Hodges.

7.  Shop sign

     I've been going by "Sign of the Yellow Cat" for years for any impression that involves needle trades.  I       finally got around to making a proper sign for Bunker Hill.

8.  Large Milliner's trunk.

     The shape isn't quite right--it should be domed --but this was the only cardboard trunk shape I could           find.  This one is large enough to put bonnets and hats in. I'd like to change the clasp.  

Of course the trunk is lined with the Maryland Gazette --Stamp Act edition!

9.  Summer striped linen gown (self drafted)

     This gown is so cool and comfortable.  I made it for Bunker Hill but ended up wearing it all summer.

     

close up of bodice

10.  1970s short caftan.  Elizabeth Caftan from Charm Patterns Patreon.

       I can't begin to say how much I love this garment.  It's is the most comfortable thing I've had on my           body that I can remember.  Fabric is a Liberty of London retro print from the 1960s. I have some 

       tropical rayon to make a long version next summer.

11.  Mid 1820s summer frock

       This is the last of the LaFayette's Triumphant Tour gowns. 

11.  Mid 1820s summer bonnet. 

       I started with a seagrass capeline for this.  I used the Timely Tresses Sophia bonnet pattern to make a  

       pasteboard form to block the capeline on and it worked out well.  The hardest thing was finding a               capeline large enough to not have to piece.

12.  Half sized mannequin--aka--"Tiny Tabitha"

       I needed a way to demonstrate draping and making a gown in an hour long demonstration.  Tiny   

      Tabitha was the perfect assistant.  I found the pattern on Scribd and the author ended up having an 

      Etsy shop where I ordered the pattern for the arms.  I designed the base.  Fun, but very fiddly, project!  

13.  Shift for Tiny Tabitha (a combination of B&T half size pattern and self drafting)

14.  Stays for Tiny Tabitha (self drafted).

       Worsted, lined with linen and trimmed in leather.

15.  Taffeta English gown for Tiny Taffeta (self drafted)

16.  1950s dress  Charm Patterns Scout dress with 3/4 sleeve extension (Patreon)

       Scout is one of my favorite patterns.  I didn't have enough fabric to make the skirt with the                   pattern so I just cut two lengths of the 45 inch fabric, seamed them then pleated it to the bodice.           The original skirt is substantially fuller.

17.  Red worsted English Gown (self drafted)

       I've been wanting a red wool gown for years!  Finally got some fabric on sale.  Need to finish  

       the petticoat but in the meantime, the silk matelasse one will do.

 

Red Worsted 1770s English gown

 My last project of the year!  I've been wanting a red worsted gown so imagine my delight when Fabric Mart finally had some red worsted on sale for $14 a yard!  The fabric was actually a tricotine which is a double twill with a smooth, plain wrong side.  I didn't care for the right side so the wrong side is what shows!

I decided to use some printed linen I had in my stash for the lining.  I have about 9 yards of this and figured I could save my white linen to line summer weight linens or silk.

There's nothing particularly special about this gown.  It's a very plain early to mid 70s gown made exactly the same way as my blue gown that I made for Battle Road.  I wanted to wear this one to Washington's Crossing but didn't get the petticoat done in time.  I guess that will be my first project for 2026!  I wore it with my gold colored silk matelasse petticoat and a lot of layers!

I'm happy with this gown.   I nice plain gown can be dressed up or down!   On to next year!

Who doesn't need a Halloween frock!

 Just a quick catch up post.  

I have a bunch of printed cottons from Joanns' to make some Gertie frocks so I thought I make one up for Girls Night Out at Savage Mill.  The theme was Cabinet of Curiousity with a Halloween theme and I had the perfect print for that --shown below with the black cat head buttons and tarot card earrings.

I decided to do the Scout dress from Gertie.  I had just under 4 yards of fabric and to do the nice full skirt that the pattern has, it requires almost 6 yards of fabric.  I figured I'd just cut two lengths of fabric, seam them together center back and call it a day.  I'd done this before with a gathered skirt but I decided to pleat this one.

This pattern has a short puffy sleeve which isn't very flattering on me but a 3/4 length sleeve pattern was released later which I really like so I went with that.

Here's the finished frock on my dress form:

And of course some fun pics of me in the dress.  I love this pattern but would've really liked the skirt to be much fuller since the crinoline pretty much fills it out with no room to spare.  

I love this dress--as I tend to love all of Gertie's patterns.  I'd love it even more had I had enough fabric to make the fuller skirt but this works well enough for something so seasonal.  I have a few more prints for this pattern that I need to get to at some point.

Tiny Tabitha gets dressed!

I've gotten behind!  This project was completed in August!

We last left Tiny Tabitha as pictured below with her stays and shift.  Since her job is to be a model for a mantua making demo, she obviously needed a gown!  Here's a pic from the last post for reference.  Jordie is pictured with her for scale.

To finish her underpinnings, we added hip pads

And an underpetticoat 

Next up --I had to drape an English gown.  I draped the back and front using pattern tracing cloth and stitched the pieces together to fit.

After a couple of small tweaks, I set about constructing the gown like I would a gown for myself.

First fitting

Setting the length of the shoulder straps

The petticoat was easy!

Finished gown front.  Sleeves are a little snug so I'll adjust the pattern accordingly.

Finished gown back.

Tabitha makes a cooperative model while being draped for a mantua making demo.

(photo by Lynn Bassett)

Part of the demo was a demo of how an earlier gown would be refashioned into a center front closing gown.  This was much easier for participants to understand having seen the entire process of draping a gown from start to finish.  My original intent was to rip out half the gown but I couldn't bring myself to do that so I made another bodice front and pined it at the side seam.  The extra bodice had the dart and robing ripped out so I could chalk a new neckline and explain how a shoulder strap would be made along with other alterations that would be made.

(photo by Lynne Bassett)

I'm really glad I made this project.  I do a lot of demos and this has proven to be an efficient method for doing so in a museum setting.  The print gown that I was draping had each step completed in advance.  I showed how to drape the lining, then had the completed pieces ready for the next step.  They were able to see the process and the order of construction all the way through.  I will also use Tiny Tabitha to make some patterns for myself.  She is almost exactly 1/2 my measurements so sizing up after making a pattern for her will be pretty easy.

Who would've thought a half size mannequin would end up being so handy!