A new chintz gown for Mrs. Chew

 I had an event coming up that was yesterday.  Figuring it would be warm in the middle of May, I decided to finally make a chintz gown for Mrs. Chew.  She has quite the wardrobe of silk gowns but nothing suitable to wear in the warmer months.  I had 14 yards of this one CW print in my stash.  I was hoping originally to make a sack out of it but I've found that the old CW prints are just too heavy for sacks so an English gown would do the trick.  I certainly had plenty of fabric for trim and it looks like I may get a jacket out of the yardage as well--mainly to wear in the car going to and from events.

I used my regular self-drafted folded robing English gown pattern.  I knew I wanted some passementerie on the trim edges because fine hemming that heavy cotton was something I had no desire to do.  I cut the gown out, tweaking the fit a tiny bit and making the robings about 1/4 inch wider.

As I always do--I made the sleeves first. Still undecided about how to do the trim, I figured I could at least put the passementerie on the edges of the sleeve flounces.  In order to do this, I pressed a tiny hem--about 1/8 inch--to the right side of the ruffle and simply stitched the passementerie on top of the hem, hiding the raw edges.  It turned out well.

Then I cut and prepped everything else--back pleats, darts, robings etc. --while trying to workout the kind of trim strips I wanted in my head.

Here's what I came up with.  I cut the strips the desired width (plus 1/4 inch) and about 1.5 times the length of the area to be trimmed.  I pressed the tiny hem toward the right side like I had done with the sleeve edges.

Then I stitched the passementerie on using fairly large running stitches on the back--basically like spaced prick stitches.

I was torn between doing a row of gathers up the enter or on each side.  I went with the later, folding in each trimmed edge 1/2 inch and whip gathering.

After the gathering was done, I opened it out and pressed it to control the puffiness.  You can see the finished trim on the sleeves and stomacher below.

I had a hard time deciding how to arrange the trim on the stomacher.  Making S shaped swirls is more finicky when you have trim strips that are gathered on both edges.  I do that configuration often with pleated trims.  I went with diagonal straight strips.  Then I made a bow with some shot silk I have in my stash.  I love this particular silk and may end up using the rest of it to make a mantelet to wear with this gown.

I cut the trim strips for the robings and skirt edges 1/4 inch wider than those on the sleeves and stomacher.  Here is the gown with trimmed robings.  I'll wear it this way for my event but my intention is to trim the skirt edges and trim the petticoat though I'm still undecided on what I want to do with the petticoat.  I also made some plain linen voile sleeve ruffles.  I have some with wide lace but I decided that the plain ones were more suitable for a day gown.  The robings look wider on the dress form as she's way skinnier than I am!

Since I would be wearing this with a plain linen voile apron, I made a matching half handkerchief.

Lastly, I got out one of my favorite caps (the Annabelle) and decided to make some silk trim to match the breast bow.  I really love doing millinery trim out of taffeta.  The bows hold their shape and stay so crisp!

Here's the gown in its current form as worn.  I'll update when I get the rest of the trim on. 

I really like this gown.  The fit is a bit better, not being as restrictive around the armscye.  It was comfortable to wear for the 2 hour plus drive each way to my event.  I know I'll get a lot of use out of it.

Cliveden has Elizabeth Chew's chatelaine in their collection.  The next side project will be finding components to make a reasonable facsimile of it.

Missing in Action--catching up!

It's been a long time since I last posted.  Sometimes life gets in the way.  Turns out that late last fall I starting having some extremely painful cervical spine issues requiring physical therapy which made it difficult to do hand sewing.  I tend to bend my neck when I hand sew.  I decided to use the time to catch up on some quickie machine sewing tasks.

I have so many cotton and cotton/lycra knits in my stash that I finally decided to whip up some pjs.  I love wearing knit pj pants with t-shirts.  I keep a collection of sleeping t-shirts in long and short sleeves as well as tank tops but I did get some new shirts for my new pjs.

I found a cute pattern on Etsy for summer pjs (which I still have to make) and decided to use that pants pattern since it was made for stretchy knits.  I realized after printing out the pattern that it had no side seam which is a problem as I like to have in seam pockets so I needed to add a side seam and a pocket.  

I really like the pocket construction in my Maryland flag lounge pants.  It's folded along the free vertical edge and the top of the pocket is caught in the waistband to keep it from flopping in place.  So I decided to just copy that one. 

The rest of the process went pretty smoothly.  I like the way the elastic and drawstring go together on this pattern.  One thing I realized, though, is that I need to start using my serger again.  I'll have to take it in for a tune up because sewing knits on the sewing machine takes longer.

Here are the finished PJs:

These pants are soooo comfortable.  These cotton/lycra knits are fairly meaty so I'll need to get some lightweight cotton jersey to make some summer ones.  This is one of the reasons I'll miss Joann Fabrics so much.  They had the best selection of cotton printed knits and I've amased quite a stash of them.  Some were for the grand which never got made but they'll make great pjs for me!

Next up is the skeleton print tunic.  I've had this fabric in my stash for years.   I made the grand a similar tunic when she was 4 (she's now 9!).  I love this print.  The other print is for another project.

I made the pink version but without the hood.  I love hoods but they can get in the way for workout clothing.  I did follow the pattern method for the neck band.

The last of the quickie sewing projects was one I've been sitting on for a year.  It's the Society Dress from Gertie's patreon.  It's a solid 1940s style knit dress.  I bought the rayon knit over a year ago for this project and realized that I do not like working with these slinky type knits.  I like the final result though.

This type of dress would be a great travel piece as you can literally roll it up into a ball and shove in a backpack!  I have another of these cut out of the black print with moons and stars (pictured above with the skeleton print).  That print is a more stable cotton/lycra knit.  I need to fine tune the fit a bit more as it was still a little long waisted on me.

Last up, I whipped up a quick knitting pattern:  One of the many versions of the Miss Marple scarf that you can find on Ravelry.  I had some white wool Cascade 220 in my stash and literally ran out about 1 inch from the end of the project.  I was able to get another skein.

I really like this pattern a lot.  The design is very clever--the way one side feeds through an opening on the other.  It keeps it snugged up against the neck which is nice and warm!

I guess being sidelined didn't completely render me completely unproductive. LOL.  I'm back at making history clothing.  I'm also looking forward to making more modern stuff--some which has already been cut out!

2025 Year in Review

When I start these posts, I always think I didn't get much done.  Then when I add it all up, I realize I did. I guess I'm judging my quantity of work on modern standards involving machine sewing.  There are a few of projects that fall in that category.  The rest are all hand sewn and often involve patterning as well.  This post includes a few non sewing history items that were needed for various impressions.

1. Silk bonnet with taffeta trim 

    This was done using my own pattern that I designed for workshops.  The pattern has 3 brims and 2 

    cauls.  This is the small caul and brim #2.

2.  Black taffeta sack  (self drafted)

     I had actually started this a couple of years ago and it had been languishing on my mannequin ever   

     since until we decided to do a funeral/mourning program which gave me the motivation I needed.

3.  Silk gauze half hankerchief with French Valenciennes lace.

4.  Silk gauze double ruffles with French Valenciennes lace

5.  Tropical weight wool/cashmere stuff English gown (self drafted)

     I love this gown.  It feels like pima cotton.  This, the bonnet and cloak were made for the 250th of  

     Battle Road.

6.  Black broadcloth cloak with mohair trim

     Sue Felshin's pattern which was put on paper by Ruth Hodges.

7.  Shop sign

     I've been going by "Sign of the Yellow Cat" for years for any impression that involves needle trades.  I       finally got around to making a proper sign for Bunker Hill.

8.  Large Milliner's trunk.

     The shape isn't quite right--it should be domed --but this was the only cardboard trunk shape I could           find.  This one is large enough to put bonnets and hats in. I'd like to change the clasp.  

Of course the trunk is lined with the Maryland Gazette --Stamp Act edition!

9.  Summer striped linen gown (self drafted)

     This gown is so cool and comfortable.  I made it for Bunker Hill but ended up wearing it all summer.

     

close up of bodice

10.  1970s short caftan.  Elizabeth Caftan from Charm Patterns Patreon.

       I can't begin to say how much I love this garment.  It's is the most comfortable thing I've had on my           body that I can remember.  Fabric is a Liberty of London retro print from the 1960s. I have some 

       tropical rayon to make a long version next summer.

11.  Mid 1820s summer frock

       This is the last of the LaFayette's Triumphant Tour gowns. 

11.  Mid 1820s summer bonnet. 

       I started with a seagrass capeline for this.  I used the Timely Tresses Sophia bonnet pattern to make a  

       pasteboard form to block the capeline on and it worked out well.  The hardest thing was finding a               capeline large enough to not have to piece.

12.  Half sized mannequin--aka--"Tiny Tabitha"

       I needed a way to demonstrate draping and making a gown in an hour long demonstration.  Tiny   

      Tabitha was the perfect assistant.  I found the pattern on Scribd and the author ended up having an 

      Etsy shop where I ordered the pattern for the arms.  I designed the base.  Fun, but very fiddly, project!  

13.  Shift for Tiny Tabitha (a combination of B&T half size pattern and self drafting)

14.  Stays for Tiny Tabitha (self drafted).

       Worsted, lined with linen and trimmed in leather.

15.  Taffeta English gown for Tiny Taffeta (self drafted)

16.  1950s dress  Charm Patterns Scout dress with 3/4 sleeve extension (Patreon)

       Scout is one of my favorite patterns.  I didn't have enough fabric to make the skirt with the                   pattern so I just cut two lengths of the 45 inch fabric, seamed them then pleated it to the bodice.           The original skirt is substantially fuller.

17.  Red worsted English Gown (self drafted)

       I've been wanting a red wool gown for years!  Finally got some fabric on sale.  Need to finish  

       the petticoat but in the meantime, the silk matelasse one will do.