2022 Costuming/Historical Sewing Year in Review

It's that time of year when I take stock of my costuming accomplishments.  I've expanded this post to include other historical sewing since some of it required a boatload of research and took a lot of time.  Note that these projects are all sewn in the period manner.  If the period used machines, then a machine was used.  If hand sewing was the period standard, then the project was sewn by hand in the manner revealed in my research. Many of these items are accessories--some of which are just as labor intensive as full sized garments--particularly those with any embroidery or trim.  

One thing that always amuses me when I make these year in review posts is how different this list often is from the goals list I make at the beginning of the year.  Two of these projects were on my goals list.  At least two of those original goals that weren't completed will go on my goals for 2023 list.  LOL.  Sometimes my research and needs just takes me in a different direction!

This post does not include my modern sewing projects which includes three 1950's style frocks and 3 or 4 other garments.  I've listed these in order of completion and linked them to blog posts/tutorials where they exist.

1.  1921 black worsted tea frock.   This one was a lot more complicated than it appears to be!

      Detailed post with research can be found here. 

2. 1920s black taffeta petticoat.

    

Detailed post and tutorial can be found here.

3 and 4.  1786 Balloon hat and figured wool Italian gown.

               Detailed post and hat tutorial can be found here.

       

5, 6, and 7.   Three different silk bonnets.

                     Detailed post and tutorial can be found here:

8.  1780 Chintz gown.   Shown here with my friend Esther, who is wearing a gown of the same fabric!

      I'm on the right.  Detailed post can be found here.

9 and 10.  Two new work aprons.  The heavier white apron and the red checked apron are new.  

                 The blue one is included to show the new hand woven tape.  

11.  A new 1760s work gown for Widow Ferguson.   This gown is being worn with the white apron above         as well as a new linen voile handkerchief included with this project.

       Detailed post can be found here.

12.  1810s Regency cap made from a remnant of antique sprigged organdy.

13.  Linen bed gown.  It's hard to believe I haven't had a bed gown all these years.  I completed this one as         part of an 18th century home sewing presentation and found that I rather liked it.

14.  1920s brimmed cloche.  I wasn't sure whether to include this or not.  It was a fair amount of work.  It         was refashioned from a wide brimmed large brimmed thrift store hat that is 100% wool.  I had to         

       completely reblock it numerous times, cut away much of the brim and stiffen it more.  I should trim it 

       but haven't yet decided on what I want.

15.  Common linen mitts.    These were done as a sample for a mitts workshop.

16.  1770s Sheer organdy cap.  Another demo project for a workshop.

17.  1770s shift.  This one was a lot of work but desperately needed.

18.  In progress, fine linen voile Quaker cap.  Hopefully I'll finish it before the end of the year in which csse I will update.

Other history sewing that I don't wear:

Men's shirt.   This was made for a museum program on Esther deBerdt Reed.  I found myself demonstrating thread button making all day as the kids seemed to enjoy it.

Baby layette from Sharon Burnston's excellent instructions.

Miniature bedding project:  This was a lengthy project as I had to make the rope bed from an Ikea doll  

bed.  Details and research can be found here.

Rose blanket for the miniature bed:  research and details here.

In progress:  Blue checked men's shirt.  If I finish it, I'll update.

When I start these posts, I always think I didn't accomplish much--until I actually start counting and realize that I was rather productive!  I have a lot planned for 2023 and I suspect that what gets finished will not even be on that list if past years are an indicator. LOL.

Here's to a new year with lots of new sewing adventures!

Quickie Project: 1780s Indienne Italian Gown with Linen Batiste Petticoat

 There's nothing better than knocking out a gown/petticoat from your stash.  I've been sitting on this Indienne voile that I got in 2016.  I love this fabric as it's the only one I've found with several shades of indigo blue.  The seller no longer has an account so I'm glad I got it when I did. I had always had it earmarked for an Italian gown so I got to work this week as I thought something this light and airy would be perfect for July 4 at Mount Vernon--particularly since the weather report predicted the temp to be in the 90s with high humidity.

I used the same Italian gown pattern that I drafted in this post.  There are a few small differences which I will describe.  The bodice went together quickly--the back 4 pieces with lining were constructed with English stitch then the side back/front was stitched on.

The fabric is 44-45 inches wide so I used three lengths and just seamed them together at the selvedge edges and hemmed the front edges with running stitch.  I pleated the skirt with a 4 inch deep inverted pleat at center back then stacked smaller pleats on top.

The bodice was pinned over the pleats after slashing the skirt top in the center of the inverted pleats.  This enables you to angle the pleats around the point of the bodice.  The bodice was stitched on with appliqué stitch then the remainder of the lining was inserted.

The sleeves were trimmed with Swiss organdy.

Since this gown has a slight train, I wanted internal ties to be able to pull the skirt up.  I stitched 1/4 inch linen tape at the waist where the skirt seams are and 18 inches lower on the skirt seams.  The pieces of tape are around 15 inches long.

To pull the skirt up, just tie the ties before putting it on!

I had been hoarding this super fine linen from Larkin & Smith--it really is good cap linen.   I had just enough for a petticoat if I cut the petticoat a little shorter.  I was able to get 4 widths 9 inches wide for the ruffle.  The ruffle sections were seamed at the selvedge edges then the long edges were roll hemmed.  The strip was pinned to the petticoat at the quarter points and I freehanded box pleats that were secured with a prick stitch.  The ruffle hangs about 2 inches below the petticoat hem.

The petticoat was hemmed to be worn over a 1780s bum pad.  If wearing the gown skirt down, I would probably wear my split bum but I chose to wear this one instead.

This is the lightest, airiest summer gown I own.  I decided to wear my plain, super sheer half handkerchief and apron and my big organdy cap.

At Mount Vernon waiting for the fireworks.

I'm very happy with the way this gown turned out.  It may be a new favorite and I know I'll have plenty of use for the petticoat!

2019 Costuming Goals. Let the fun begin.

Once again, I will attempt to identify my costuming goals for 2019.  Unlike last year's list,  I will actually accomplish at least some of these though I can't be responsible for unexpected events requiring me to make other choices.  LOL.  Some of these are already planned for specific events which helps. Deadlines can be good things.  I'm really hoping this will be the year of the sacque.  It's long overdue.   The best thing about this list is that I have all of the supplies for everything on it with the exception of the velvet Spencer and the Titanic era outfit.

This list does not include any modern sewing projects, household or gift sewing.  Strictly costuming stuff.  Nor does it include anything like samples to be prepared for workshops.

Here it is--because we all need goals. Right? I wonder how many I can do.

(1) 1770 Wool Sateen Mourning gown, matching petticoat, small hip pads and two caps--lappet for daywear and wired wing cap for dressier occasions.  This is needed for the third week in January.

The gown and lappet cap will be based on this image:

With the finer neck handkerchief and cap based on this one:

Worsted sateen complete with requisite cat hair

(2) 1780's Spotted worsted long sleeved Italian gown and pink worsted petticoat.  This is needed for the last week in February.

(3) 1760's Silk damask gown with shot silk petticoat (and possibly a royal blue one to switch out).  Hope to have enough fabric fore a matching stomacher.  Gown based on this example in the Met.  Would like to have this finished for the last week in February.

(4) 1818 Velvet Spencer from DAR's An Agreeable Tyrant Exhibit.  This may become a long term project as I don't expect to wear it until next winter.

(5)Titanic Era outfit--to be chosen from these 2 patterns.  Needed in April.

(6)Cotton chintz sacque based on this extant.  I'd like to complete this to wear to His Exellency's estate on Independence Day.  This was on this past year's list of goals so it's a priority to get this one done.

(7) Lady Hodge's gown as shown in her family portrait with the neck handkerchief, cap and sleeve flounces.  I have gold silk in an exact match!  This was also on the past year's list.  The monthly challenge in the Historical Sew Fortnightly for August is to copy a picture so I would like to attempt to complete this project for that challenge.

(8) World War 2 era Red Cross Military Service uniform like the one my mother wore.  Need this for Veterans Day.

If time permits, A regency gown copied from this illustration in Costume in Detail out of the spotted muslin and an unlined bedgown out of one of the linens.  I hope to also begin planning a riding habit to begin early 2020.  These are not high on the list and may move to next year's list.

Gown fabric--cotton voile with woven diamond spots:

Bedgown linens:

I do also have 2 long term projects in mind--basically these are projects that I will work on at events over an extended period of time. One of these will be worked on simultaneously with the projects above.  Listed in order of completion.

(1)  Silk quilted petticoat in French blue taffeta--to be started in January.

(2) One set of stays--either the Larkin & Smith 1770's stays in blue worsted or a set of 1780's half boned stays in pink worsted--as yet to be determined which.  Hope to start them toward the end of the year.

Let the challenge begin!