Thursday, February 8, 2024

Just in time for the cold! Gertie's Swing Coat

First post of the year!  I actually finished this on New Year's Eve.

One of the best things about being a member of Gertie's Charm Patterns Patreon is the fact that you get a full sized exclusive garment pattern every month.  Occasionally you get a bonus pattern or a pattern hack for an existing one.  This pattern is a Patreon exclusive.

I fell in love with this fabric from Fabric Mart, which is 100% wool, a couple of years ago.  I resisted ordering it until there were just a few yards left then I got what was left.  They threw in an extra yard.  This particular fabric posed some challenges in that it is super chunky and loosely woven.  I thought it would be perfect for a design that is as simple as this coat--just a few seams and darts with one buttonhole.

Due to the loose weave, I decided to add a bit of extra warmth by choosing sunback lining.  Other issues to work out were how to mark the darts given the texture of this and how to construct the bound buttonhole.  I decided to do the buttonhole "lips" out of a plain wool flannel that wouldn't ravel.  Fortunately I had some black wool flannel in my stash.  I also used a larger button than called for.  A 1-inch button would've gotten lost in this fabric.  I found a plain, but interesting button almost 2 inches with multiple holes that was funky enough to go with it.

Other than shortening the sleeve pattern piece and the body by 1 inch, no alterations were made.  I used the straight size 8 pattern.

Bound buttonhole

Used some silk embroidery floss to stitch the button on.  I had to ensure that I made a good sturdy shank when doing so due to the bulk of this fabric.

Finished coat front

Finished coat back

Love the way it turned out!

I'm very happy with the way this one turned out.  The pattern is very simple and Gertie designed it to have very little hand sewing.  Even the sleeve lining is completely put in by machine.  I'm considering making a raincoat from this pattern.  One alteration I will need to make next time is the raise the inseam pockets by a couple of inches.  They are just too low on my body.  I'm not sure if that's due to the actual pattern measurements or if the coat just stretched in length due to the weight of it.  Another option would be to make patch pockets.  I'll cross that bridge when I come to it!

I highly recommend this pattern.  If you love vintage styled clothing, you should check out Gertie's Patreon!


  1. Oh it's just fabulous!! I love the chunky weave and the colors are great. I think doing the larger button and making a lining was a good choice. I would love to see a bit more of your vintage sewing projects -- The 18th century ones are wonderful too -- just would like to see more "daily wearables" from you. Anna in SW Virginia

    1. I'll have to remember to post them as I make them. I've always loved 50s style because they flatter my bottom heavy curves. LOL