This is a fairly short post as I was on such a tight deadline that I didn't take many construction photos. Since this was the 250th Anniversary of the start of the American War for Independence, I thought I'd make something new. The women participating in the evacuation of the various residences in Minuteman National Historic Park are portraying middle sort women in 1775. Dress was on the conservative side. I planned on wearing my satin bonnet which I made as a demo piece in a workshop I taught in January. The clothing standards indicate that wool stomacher gowns were to be worn. Fortunately, I've been sitting on about 8 - 10 yards of imported super 360 wool/cashmere tropical weight suiting that I had bought in one of the selling groups on Facebook. It's amazing as it feels like pima cotton and is very lightweight so I figured it would work for any weather situation. New England in April can be all over the map weatherwise!
I made a gown using the the bodice I had drafted in this post. I really prefer folded robings to robing strips. The gown was made with a fitted plain sleeve. This is really a solid mid 1770s plain gown. I've used this bodice pattern with some variations in a number of gowns, mostly 1760s, and it's basically my tried and true pattern at this point.
I wanted this gown and petticoat to be a bit shorter. I've made this enough times that I don't really try it on until I'm attaching the shoulder strap in the back to be sure the armscye fits. I figured I should at least double check it before I pack it up and head north.
Here's a better photo on the dress form. Both of these photos are without a shift and underpetticoat so the skirts look a bit flat.
It was great to get this done with fabric from my stash. I still have 4 yards left so I will probably make something 1940s with the leftovers.
I also wanted to do a nicer middlin' style short cloak. My original red one is okay but it's more of a lower sort and my others are all upper sort. I had some black wool in my stash that seems to be between a broadcloth and a plush. It has a hard edge. I used Sue Felshin's, which I've used before. A good friend of mind had made a paper pattern and copied it for me which was a great time saver. Mohair trimmed cloaks have fascinated me for some time so I decided to trim this one with mohair and to only have a small cape and collar.
The mohair is from a
supplier on Etsy. The fabric backing is woven. I bought one half a yard and it's about 54 inches wide. I ended up only using a little over half of what I bought so there would've been enough for a hood had I decided to make one. Whenever there is fur, one has to be careful to only cut the backing and avoid cutting the fur nap itself. I decided to try to solve that problem by tearing my strips. Determining the width of the strips was the first task. 3 inches looked right on the bottom of the cloak itself with 2 inches being better for the cape. The front edges ended up being 1.5 inches wide. I snipped through the selvedge and gave it a good tug and was amazed at how easily it tore! The nap definitely lays in one direction so I had to make sure I applied the pieces going in the same direction. The mohair is torn on grain and is applied to a curved surface so the top edge of the mohair has to be slightly eased.
The long edges of the mohair were left raw and the short ends were turned under when pinned in place.
I whip stitched the bottom edge in place but found that process to be a bit frustrating as the whip stitched kept catching the fur. This took longer as I had to stop and pull the fur out. I ended up using a running stitch for the remainder of the mohair as I found I could insert my needle under the fur when stitching and go faster. The last thing was sewing on the black wool tape ties.
I simply love how this turned out--even with the white cat hair on it!
I wore my gown with a medium weight white linen apron and a white linen handkerchief with a blue border. Sadly I didn't get too many photos of these garments in action but I was very comfortable in them. I know I'll get a lot of use out of them.
Checking things in the Lexington Historic Masonic Lodge:
Lexington Green--saying goodbye to our militia men as they prepare for the Regulars:
In the kitchen at Hartwell Tavern, Minuteman National Historic Park:
I know I'll get a lot of use out of both of these pieces--especially the gown which can probably be worn year round. Now to think about linen for the hot Mid Atlantic summer!
