New 18th Century Caps!

New caps!  My favorite accessory to make!

Cap #1 is a double ruffle cap with a smallish caul that can be worn from 1750s through the 1770s.  It's made of Swiss organdy.  I basically constructed it the same as a single ruffle cap, then cut another ruffle the same size, pleated it a little more tightly and laid it over the first ruffle, setting the straight edge about 5/8 inch higher on the band, whip stitching it in place. 

Cap #2 is another lappet cap made just like the one in this post with the exception of having narrower ribbon in white for the tie.  This one is sized to fit my modest 1770s hair.

Caps are one of the most satisfying projects for me to make.  They pack a big punch for such a small item.  They can change the whole look of an outfit!

Mrs. Coffin's fancy half Handkerchief ca. 1770

One of my favorite portraits is that of Mrs. William Coffin (Anne Holmes) by John Singleton Copley painted ca. 1770.  I stumbled upon Mrs. Coffin while researching 18th century mourning gowns.  Mrs. Coffin appears to be wearing a simple black silk sacque back gown but it is her accessories that I found particularly enchanting.  Note the wired cap with tiny pleats that appears to tie under the chin.  There is what looks like an organdy bow with a satin or taffeta bow layered on top of it.  The choker is stunning--a row of what look like freshwater pearls at the top and bottom with large flat pearls in the center.  I'm unable to tell if the pearls are stitched down to a backing but the neck lookes darker behind them than it does in the "V" above her neck handkerchief. 

Speaking of the neck handkerchief, that is my favorite accessory.  I decided to copy it.  The sheerness of the textile leads me to believe that it may be silk gauze.   Other details:   Box pleated trim is applied to all the edges however the trim on the neck edge is narrower than the trim on the outer edge.  Also--I couldn't tell if it had wide box pleats set closely spaced or narrow box pleats set far apart.  I zoomed into the high definition image and determined that the trim was made with narrow box pleats spaced far apart.

I cut a shape I thought would work and tried it on. The angle of the "legs" was wrong as the shape did not lay flat on my shoulders. 

I took a huge tuck in the back to play with the angle and got the fit to work.

I traced the adjusted pattern, lengthening the legs.

I cut this shape out of silk gauze (organza) and made a tiny hem (less than 1/8 inch) hem around the edges.  The next task was to determine the width of the ruffles.   I played around with my measuring tape and determined that 1 1/2 inches on the neck edge and about 2 1/4 inches on the outer edge.  I cut strips across my 56 inch wide organza in these widths adding a bit for hem allowance, then I narrow hemmed the long edges. Since I wasn't sure how long to cut the strips, I started at the center back of the neck and just pinned the pleats in place.  I did the same with the outer edge, pinning the wider strip in place.  I ended up having to cut more so I cut a strip at the narrow width angling the edges until it was the wider width if that makes sense.  I used running stitch and spaced back stitch to stitch the strips to the hemmed edge of the handkerchief.  

Here it is for a final fitting.  I just used one pin to secure it then pinned the bow in place.

Here is the finished handkerchief worn over two different gowns.

I was very happy with this little project.  I love playing with accessories as I find that they can completely change the appearance of a gown.  Now I just need to get to work to finish the rest of Mrs. Coffin's mourning ensemble!