2025 Year in Review

When I start these posts, I always think I didn't get much done.  Then when I add it all up, I realize I did. I guess I'm judging my quantity of work on modern standards involving machine sewing.  There are a few of projects that fall in that category.  The rest are all hand sewn and often involve patterning as well.  This post includes a few non sewing history items that were needed for various impressions.

1. Silk bonnet with taffeta trim 

    This was done using my own pattern that I designed for workshops.  The pattern has 3 brims and 2 

    cauls.  This is the small caul and brim #2.

2.  Black taffeta sack  (self drafted)

     I had actually started this a couple of years ago and it had been languishing on my mannequin ever   

     since until we decided to do a funeral/mourning program which gave me the motivation I needed.

3.  Silk gauze half hankerchief with French Valenciennes lace.

4.  Silk gauze double ruffles with French Valenciennes lace

5.  Tropical weight wool/cashmere stuff English gown (self drafted)

     I love this gown.  It feels like pima cotton.  This, the bonnet and cloak were made for the 250th of  

     Battle Road.

6.  Black broadcloth cloak with mohair trim

     Sue Felshin's pattern which was put on paper by Ruth Hodges.

7.  Shop sign

     I've been going by "Sign of the Yellow Cat" for years for any impression that involves needle trades.  I       finally got around to making a proper sign for Bunker Hill.

8.  Large Milliner's trunk.

     The shape isn't quite right--it should be domed --but this was the only cardboard trunk shape I could           find.  This one is large enough to put bonnets and hats in. I'd like to change the clasp.  

Of course the trunk is lined with the Maryland Gazette --Stamp Act edition!

9.  Summer striped linen gown (self drafted)

     This gown is so cool and comfortable.  I made it for Bunker Hill but ended up wearing it all summer.

     

close up of bodice

10.  1970s short caftan.  Elizabeth Caftan from Charm Patterns Patreon.

       I can't begin to say how much I love this garment.  It's is the most comfortable thing I've had on my           body that I can remember.  Fabric is a Liberty of London retro print from the 1960s. I have some 

       tropical rayon to make a long version next summer.

11.  Mid 1820s summer frock

       This is the last of the LaFayette's Triumphant Tour gowns. 

11.  Mid 1820s summer bonnet. 

       I started with a seagrass capeline for this.  I used the Timely Tresses Sophia bonnet pattern to make a  

       pasteboard form to block the capeline on and it worked out well.  The hardest thing was finding a               capeline large enough to not have to piece.

12.  Half sized mannequin--aka--"Tiny Tabitha"

       I needed a way to demonstrate draping and making a gown in an hour long demonstration.  Tiny   

      Tabitha was the perfect assistant.  I found the pattern on Scribd and the author ended up having an 

      Etsy shop where I ordered the pattern for the arms.  I designed the base.  Fun, but very fiddly, project!  

13.  Shift for Tiny Tabitha (a combination of B&T half size pattern and self drafting)

14.  Stays for Tiny Tabitha (self drafted).

       Worsted, lined with linen and trimmed in leather.

15.  Taffeta English gown for Tiny Taffeta (self drafted)

16.  1950s dress  Charm Patterns Scout dress with 3/4 sleeve extension (Patreon)

       Scout is one of my favorite patterns.  I didn't have enough fabric to make the skirt with the                   pattern so I just cut two lengths of the 45 inch fabric, seamed them then pleated it to the bodice.           The original skirt is substantially fuller.

17.  Red worsted English Gown (self drafted)

       I've been wanting a red wool gown for years!  Finally got some fabric on sale.  Need to finish  

       the petticoat but in the meantime, the silk matelasse one will do.

 

Who doesn't need a Halloween frock!

 Just a quick catch up post.  

I have a bunch of printed cottons from Joanns' to make some Gertie frocks so I thought I make one up for Girls Night Out at Savage Mill.  The theme was Cabinet of Curiousity with a Halloween theme and I had the perfect print for that --shown below with the black cat head buttons and tarot card earrings.

I decided to do the Scout dress from Gertie.  I had just under 4 yards of fabric and to do the nice full skirt that the pattern has, it requires almost 6 yards of fabric.  I figured I'd just cut two lengths of fabric, seam them together center back and call it a day.  I'd done this before with a gathered skirt but I decided to pleat this one.

This pattern has a short puffy sleeve which isn't very flattering on me but a 3/4 length sleeve pattern was released later which I really like so I went with that.

Here's the finished frock on my dress form:

And of course some fun pics of me in the dress.  I love this pattern but would've really liked the skirt to be much fuller since the crinoline pretty much fills it out with no room to spare.  

I love this dress--as I tend to love all of Gertie's patterns.  I'd love it even more had I had enough fabric to make the fuller skirt but this works well enough for something so seasonal.  I have a few more prints for this pattern that I need to get to at some point.

Just in time for the cold! Gertie's Swing Coat

First post of the year!  I actually finished this on New Year's Eve.

One of the best things about being a member of Gertie's Charm Patterns Patreon is the fact that you get a full sized exclusive garment pattern every month.  Occasionally you get a bonus pattern or a pattern hack for an existing one.  This pattern is a Patreon exclusive.

I fell in love with this fabric from Fabric Mart, which is 100% wool, a couple of years ago.  I resisted ordering it until there were just a few yards left then I got what was left.  They threw in an extra yard.  This particular fabric posed some challenges in that it is super chunky and loosely woven.  I thought it would be perfect for a design that is as simple as this coat--just a few seams and darts with one buttonhole.

Due to the loose weave, I decided to add a bit of extra warmth by choosing sunback lining.  Other issues to work out were how to mark the darts given the texture of this and how to construct the bound buttonhole.  I decided to do the buttonhole "lips" out of a plain wool flannel that wouldn't ravel.  Fortunately I had some black wool flannel in my stash.  I also used a larger button than called for.  A 1-inch button would've gotten lost in this fabric.  I found a plain, but interesting button almost 2 inches with multiple holes that was funky enough to go with it.

Other than shortening the sleeve pattern piece and the body by 1 inch, no alterations were made.  I used the straight size 8 pattern.

Bound buttonhole

Used some silk embroidery floss to stitch the button on.  I had to ensure that I made a good sturdy shank when doing so due to the bulk of this fabric.

Finished coat front

Finished coat back

Love the way it turned out!

I'm very happy with the way this one turned out.  The pattern is very simple and Gertie designed it to have very little hand sewing.  Even the sleeve lining is completely put in by machine.  I'm considering making a raincoat from this pattern.  One alteration I will need to make next time is the raise the inseam pockets by a couple of inches.  They are just too low on my body.  I'm not sure if that's due to the actual pattern measurements or if the coat just stretched in length due to the weight of it.  Another option would be to make patch pockets.  I'll cross that bridge when I come to it!

I highly recommend this pattern.  If you love vintage styled clothing, you should check out Gertie's Patreon!

2023 Historic/Vintage clothing year in review

Time to take stock in what I accomplished project wise.  I feel like there should be more but this is it (so far).

1.  Bonnet for a sample for my bonnet workshop.

2.  Another bonnet for a workshop sample.

3.  And a third bonnet sample!

4.  This bonnet was used to show construction during the workshop and made for the next outfit

5. Late 1770s French silk short sack and petticoat.  Details on this project here.

5.  Hat sample for class.

6. Another hat sample for class.

7.  Late 70s/early 80s French short sack and petticoat.  Details on this project here

8. 1950s/early 60s Barbie inspired dress.  Pattern for bodice and skirt from Gertie's Patreon.

9.  Another 1950s inspired outfit:  Picnic top and skirt from Gertie's Patreon

9. 1770s common linen work gown and petticoat.

10.  Upgrade--1780s silk ruffled petticoat for my Indienne Italian gown.  This dresses it up quite a bit over the ruffled linen petticoat that was made for it originally.

11.  Another 1950s inspired set.  Barbara bodice and Brooklyn jacket from Gertie's Patreon.  Vintage buttons and buckle.  Printed linen.

12.  1770s Chintz bedgown with checked linen sleeve lining.  Using remnants!

13.  Mid/late 1770s silk Sack inspired by the portrait of Ralph and Alice Izard by J.S. Copley.

14. Checked silk organza half handkerchief.

I started a black sack at the same time as the one above.  It's possible that I may finish it next week but I'm not gonna sweat it. I do need to get it done before starting something new however.  Now to plan next year's projects.  It's always fun to go back and see if I stuck to my original plan.  Usually I don't.  LOL