2025 Year in Review

When I start these posts, I always think I didn't get much done.  Then when I add it all up, I realize I did. I guess I'm judging my quantity of work on modern standards involving machine sewing.  There are a few of projects that fall in that category.  The rest are all hand sewn and often involve patterning as well.  This post includes a few non sewing history items that were needed for various impressions.

1. Silk bonnet with taffeta trim 

    This was done using my own pattern that I designed for workshops.  The pattern has 3 brims and 2 

    cauls.  This is the small caul and brim #2.

2.  Black taffeta sack  (self drafted)

     I had actually started this a couple of years ago and it had been languishing on my mannequin ever   

     since until we decided to do a funeral/mourning program which gave me the motivation I needed.

3.  Silk gauze half hankerchief with French Valenciennes lace.

4.  Silk gauze double ruffles with French Valenciennes lace

5.  Tropical weight wool/cashmere stuff English gown (self drafted)

     I love this gown.  It feels like pima cotton.  This, the bonnet and cloak were made for the 250th of  

     Battle Road.

6.  Black broadcloth cloak with mohair trim

     Sue Felshin's pattern which was put on paper by Ruth Hodges.

7.  Shop sign

     I've been going by "Sign of the Yellow Cat" for years for any impression that involves needle trades.  I       finally got around to making a proper sign for Bunker Hill.

8.  Large Milliner's trunk.

     The shape isn't quite right--it should be domed --but this was the only cardboard trunk shape I could           find.  This one is large enough to put bonnets and hats in. I'd like to change the clasp.  

Of course the trunk is lined with the Maryland Gazette --Stamp Act edition!

9.  Summer striped linen gown (self drafted)

     This gown is so cool and comfortable.  I made it for Bunker Hill but ended up wearing it all summer.

     

close up of bodice

10.  1970s short caftan.  Elizabeth Caftan from Charm Patterns Patreon.

       I can't begin to say how much I love this garment.  It's is the most comfortable thing I've had on my           body that I can remember.  Fabric is a Liberty of London retro print from the 1960s. I have some 

       tropical rayon to make a long version next summer.

11.  Mid 1820s summer frock

       This is the last of the LaFayette's Triumphant Tour gowns. 

11.  Mid 1820s summer bonnet. 

       I started with a seagrass capeline for this.  I used the Timely Tresses Sophia bonnet pattern to make a  

       pasteboard form to block the capeline on and it worked out well.  The hardest thing was finding a               capeline large enough to not have to piece.

12.  Half sized mannequin--aka--"Tiny Tabitha"

       I needed a way to demonstrate draping and making a gown in an hour long demonstration.  Tiny   

      Tabitha was the perfect assistant.  I found the pattern on Scribd and the author ended up having an 

      Etsy shop where I ordered the pattern for the arms.  I designed the base.  Fun, but very fiddly, project!  

13.  Shift for Tiny Tabitha (a combination of B&T half size pattern and self drafting)

14.  Stays for Tiny Tabitha (self drafted).

       Worsted, lined with linen and trimmed in leather.

15.  Taffeta English gown for Tiny Taffeta (self drafted)

16.  1950s dress  Charm Patterns Scout dress with 3/4 sleeve extension (Patreon)

       Scout is one of my favorite patterns.  I didn't have enough fabric to make the skirt with the                   pattern so I just cut two lengths of the 45 inch fabric, seamed them then pleated it to the bodice.           The original skirt is substantially fuller.

17.  Red worsted English Gown (self drafted)

       I've been wanting a red wool gown for years!  Finally got some fabric on sale.  Need to finish  

       the petticoat but in the meantime, the silk matelasse one will do.

 

Fast Forward 200 years: 1970s short caftan

The one Patreon I subscribe to is Gertie's Charm Patterns patreon.  She has an annual theme and you receive a monthly free pattern only available to members along with other goodies.  This year's theme is old Hollywood glamour.  The May pattern was inspired by Elizabeth Taylor, known for wearing long flowing caftans in her later years.

I had never given much thought to making a caftan but the photos of the new pattern were intriguing so I though I'd start with a short version.

I was delighted to find a Liberty of London Tana Lawn print that was a reprint from a 1969 print.

I didn't take any construction pics but it's pretty clear cut.  The front has the fitted bodice inset.  Inside there is a wide elastic belt that hooks in the back with bra hooks that pulls the front belt fitted to the body.

Here's the finished caftan:

And pics of me in it!

I have to say--this is the most comfortable thing I've worn on my body in years!  The lawn is so incredibly cool and it feels glorious against my skin.  As such, I found a flowy rayon tropical print with flamingos to make a long version.  Yes--I've become THAT old lady. LOL

Just in time for the cold! Gertie's Swing Coat

First post of the year!  I actually finished this on New Year's Eve.

One of the best things about being a member of Gertie's Charm Patterns Patreon is the fact that you get a full sized exclusive garment pattern every month.  Occasionally you get a bonus pattern or a pattern hack for an existing one.  This pattern is a Patreon exclusive.

I fell in love with this fabric from Fabric Mart, which is 100% wool, a couple of years ago.  I resisted ordering it until there were just a few yards left then I got what was left.  They threw in an extra yard.  This particular fabric posed some challenges in that it is super chunky and loosely woven.  I thought it would be perfect for a design that is as simple as this coat--just a few seams and darts with one buttonhole.

Due to the loose weave, I decided to add a bit of extra warmth by choosing sunback lining.  Other issues to work out were how to mark the darts given the texture of this and how to construct the bound buttonhole.  I decided to do the buttonhole "lips" out of a plain wool flannel that wouldn't ravel.  Fortunately I had some black wool flannel in my stash.  I also used a larger button than called for.  A 1-inch button would've gotten lost in this fabric.  I found a plain, but interesting button almost 2 inches with multiple holes that was funky enough to go with it.

Other than shortening the sleeve pattern piece and the body by 1 inch, no alterations were made.  I used the straight size 8 pattern.

Bound buttonhole

Used some silk embroidery floss to stitch the button on.  I had to ensure that I made a good sturdy shank when doing so due to the bulk of this fabric.

Finished coat front

Finished coat back

Love the way it turned out!

I'm very happy with the way this one turned out.  The pattern is very simple and Gertie designed it to have very little hand sewing.  Even the sleeve lining is completely put in by machine.  I'm considering making a raincoat from this pattern.  One alteration I will need to make next time is the raise the inseam pockets by a couple of inches.  They are just too low on my body.  I'm not sure if that's due to the actual pattern measurements or if the coat just stretched in length due to the weight of it.  Another option would be to make patch pockets.  I'll cross that bridge when I come to it!

I highly recommend this pattern.  If you love vintage styled clothing, you should check out Gertie's Patreon!

Book Review: Vintage Details: A Fashion Sourcebook by Jeffrey Mayer and Basia Szkutnicka

 Every so often I stumble on a book when looking at another on Amazon--you know the part of the page that says "people buying this book also looked at . . ."   This book was one such book that I purchased fall of 2019 and never took the time to look at.  I picked it up today and found it to be a handy sourcebook.  It focuses on women's garments from 1916 up to 1995, most of which are in the collection of the Syracuse University Costume Collection as well as a few pieces from private collections.  There are some interesting pieces, to say the least. 

This is a book entirely of photographs.   It's organized by type of detail as is indicated in the contents:

The visual index shows thumbnails with the front and back of each garment in full then it lists the page in each section where you can find that specific detail for the garment you are looking at.

Let's see how that works using the blue Robe de Style.  Note the abbreviations for each book section and the page number.

The neckline photo appears on page 38.

The fastening and buttonhole section on page 189:

The hems, darts, stitching and fitting devices section on page 230

The pleats, frills and flounces section on page 270

The embellishment section on page 303

And the construction section on page 369

There are other sections which didn't apply to this particular dress such as collars, sleeves, cuffs, pockets, and surface.

It's nice to have photos of all of these details.  I'm still not sure about the layout.  I think having the sections as they are may be helpful for someone who wants to study specific garment parts of a lot of garments.  I tend to study a specific garment and look at all the details in that garment so I prefer the pics to be all together.  I'd also love a full page pic of the entire garment.  Since this book is a book devoted to details, it definitely does its job.  It's a beautiful book.  The price has gone up substantially since I bought it though there appears to be used copies for sale.  

I would recommend this book for anyone who likes to study vintage clothing and who particularly enjoys seeing all the interesting details up close.

Cleaning out the sewing room one project at a time--Vintage Edition!

There are piles of yet to be started projects in my sewing room and I've decided that I will be every so gradually attacking those piles.  I'm not buying fabric unless something unusual that can't be made from stash arises.

I finished the first project in the pile.  This one utilized a vintage pattern and some 1940's/50's silk purchased on Ebay back in 2011.

The pattern wasn't exactly my size which is a problem one faces when buying vintage patterns.  Thanks to this article and this chart I learned that grading a pattern to the correct size isn't as daunting a task as I thought!

First I looked and the pattern pieces that needed adjusting.

Then I slashed the pattern pieces according to the directions in the article.

I took out the excess by removing the designated amount and taped the pieces together.

Then I traced the pieces, straightening out any lines that were distorted by the grading.

I made a muslin of the bodice and found that it fit perfectly.

I love the dresses of the 1950's but there are features in them that I'm not particularly fond of--most notably side zippers and metal zippers.  Most of these dresses aren't lined.  So while I was making a vintage reproduction of sorts, I chose to convert the side zipper on the pattern to the center back and to use a modern invisible zipper.  I also chose to fully line the dress with Bemberg rayon lining.   At a glance, the dress has a vintage look and some vintage details however.  I was very pleased with the final result.

Close up of bodice:

Bodice back with invisible zipper:

Some of the vintage details I kept:

Fabric covered belt

Thread belt loops

I found it interesting that patterns in this period did not include armhole facings but rather just instruct you to use fabric bias to finish the armholes.

I also covered the waist seam with the fashion fabric.

I was very happy with the end result.  The fit is perfect and I have all the proper accessories to finish off the look!